10 Monitor Buying Mistakes to Avoid
Save money and frustration by learning what actually matters
Monitor shopping is confusing. Marketing teams know this, and they exploit it with misleading specs and flashy features that don't matter. This guide cuts through the noise and shows you what actually impacts your experience.
Quick Summary
Common Mistakes
- 1. Trusting "1ms response time" claims
- 2. Thinking HDR400 is real HDR
- 3. Wrong resolution for monitor size
- 4. Ignoring panel type differences
- 5. Overpaying for refresh rate you can't use
More Mistakes
- 6. Buying for specs, not use case
- 7. Ignoring ergonomics
- 8. Falling for "gaming" marketing
- 9. Not checking connectivity
- 10. Skipping the return period test
Trusting "1ms Response Time" Marketing
The most misleading spec in monitor marketing
The Problem
Almost every gaming monitor claims "1ms response time," but these numbers are meaningless marketing. Manufacturers measure under ideal conditions (gray-to-gray at maximum overdrive) that cause visible artifacts in actual use.
The Reality
- - MPRT vs GTG: MPRT (Moving Picture Response Time) measures perceived blur, GTG (Gray-to-Gray) measures pixel transitions. They're not comparable.
- - Overdrive artifacts: Achieving "1ms" often requires aggressive overdrive that causes inverse ghosting (coronas around moving objects).
- - Real-world performance: Even good monitors average 3-5ms GTG across all transitions. OLED is the only technology with true sub-1ms response.
What to Do Instead
Look for independent reviews measuring actual response times (like RTings or Hardware Unboxed). Check for overdrive settings and whether the monitor performs well at its default or "Normal" overdrive mode, not just "Extreme."
Thinking HDR400 Is Real HDR
A certification that guarantees nothing
The Problem
HDR400 requires only 400 nits brightness and no local dimming. This provides zero meaningful HDR benefit - you won't see brighter highlights or deeper blacks. In fact, enabling HDR on these monitors often makes SDR content look washed out.
The Reality
- - HDR400: Marketing checkbox, not real HDR. Skip it.
- - HDR600: Entry-level "real" HDR with local dimming required.
- - HDR1000+: Good HDR experience with noticeable improvement.
- - OLED: Best HDR due to per-pixel dimming (infinite contrast).
What to Do Instead
If HDR matters to you, budget for at least HDR600 or an OLED. If buying a budget monitor, ignore HDR claims entirely - focus on good SDR performance instead. See our HDR guide.
Wrong Resolution for Monitor Size
Why 1080p at 27" looks blurry
The Problem
Many buyers choose a larger monitor without considering that resolution should scale with size. 1080p spread across 27" has just 82 PPI (pixels per inch), making text and edges look fuzzy compared to the same resolution on a 24" screen (92 PPI).
| Size | 1080p PPI | 1440p PPI | 4K PPI | Recommended |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 24" | 92 | 122 | 184 | 1080p |
| 27" | 82 | 109 | 163 | 1440p |
| 32" | 69 | 92 | 138 | 4K (or 1440p) |
What to Do Instead
Match resolution to size: 24" = 1080p, 27" = 1440p, 32" = 4K (or 1440p if budget limited). Target at least 90 PPI for sharp text at typical desk distances.
Ignoring Panel Type Differences
IPS, VA, TN, and OLED have distinct characteristics
The Problem
Not understanding panel types leads to disappointment. Someone buying a VA panel for competitive gaming will be frustrated by smearing in dark scenes. Someone buying TN for photo editing will have color accuracy issues.
IPS
- + Best color accuracy
- + Wide viewing angles
- - Lower contrast (1000:1)
- - IPS glow in corners
VA
- + High contrast (3000:1+)
- + Deep blacks
- - Slower response (dark smearing)
- - Narrower viewing angles
TN
- + Fastest response times
- + Cheapest
- - Worst colors
- - Terrible viewing angles
OLED
- + Perfect blacks
- + Instant response
- - Burn-in risk
- - Lower brightness
What to Do Instead
Choose panel type based on use: IPS for general use and color work, VA for movies and immersive single-player games, OLED for best image quality (if budget allows), TN only for esports on a tight budget.
Overpaying for Refresh Rate You Can't Use
360Hz is pointless without 360fps
The Problem
A 360Hz monitor shows 360 unique frames per second - but only if your GPU can render 360fps. In most games, even high-end GPUs can't hit these framerates at reasonable settings, meaning you're paying for capability you'll never use.
Realistic FPS Targets
- Esports (CS2, Valorant): RTX 4070 can hit 300+ fps at 1080p
- AAA at 1440p: RTX 4080 averages 100-150fps at high settings
- AAA at 4K: RTX 4090 averages 80-120fps at high settings
What to Do Instead
Match refresh rate to your GPU's realistic output. 144Hz is plenty for most gamers. 240Hz for competitive players with strong GPUs. 360Hz only for professional esports players in lightweight games.
Buying Based on Specs, Not Use Case
A photographer doesn't need 360Hz
The Problem
Spec-chasing leads to buying features you don't need while missing features you do. A video editor spending extra on 240Hz instead of color accuracy, or a competitive gamer choosing 4K over high refresh rate, ends up with the wrong tool.
| Use Case | Prioritize | Less Important |
|---|---|---|
| Competitive Gaming | Refresh rate, response time | Resolution, HDR |
| Immersive Gaming | Resolution, HDR, contrast | Ultra-high refresh rate |
| Photo/Video Editing | Color accuracy, resolution | Refresh rate |
| Office/Productivity | Resolution, ergonomics, eye care | Gaming features |
What to Do Instead
Define your primary use case before shopping. Allocate budget to the features that matter for that use case, not the biggest numbers on the spec sheet.
Ignoring Ergonomics
Your neck will hate that non-adjustable stand
The Problem
Budget monitors often have fixed stands that can't be adjusted for height. If the screen is too low, you'll strain your neck looking down. Too high causes neck extension. Both cause long-term discomfort and potential injury.
Ideal Ergonomics
- Height: Top of screen at or slightly below eye level
- Distance: Arm's length (20-26 inches typically)
- Tilt: Slight backward tilt (10-20 degrees)
- No glare: Screen perpendicular to windows
What to Do Instead
Prioritize height-adjustable stands, or budget for a monitor arm ($20-50 for basic arms). Look for tilt, swivel, and pivot adjustments. Your body will thank you after 8-hour workdays.
Falling for "Gaming" Marketing
RGB doesn't make a monitor better
The Problem
Slapping "gaming" on a monitor and adding RGB lighting lets manufacturers charge a premium for the same panel. Many "gaming" monitors have worse image quality than their office counterparts, just with flashier aesthetics.
Marketing Features That Don't Matter
- RGB lighting: Looks cool but doesn't affect picture quality
- "Gaming Mode": Often just reduces input lag (useful) but may lock settings
- Aggressive styling: Red accents don't improve response time
- Crosshair overlays: Gimmick; most games have built-in crosshairs
What to Do Instead
Focus on actual panel performance: response times, input lag, color accuracy. A "professional" monitor with the same panel often costs less than the "gaming" version. Compare specs, not marketing.
Not Checking Connectivity
Wrong ports = expensive adapters or no signal
The Problem
Buying a 4K 144Hz monitor then discovering your GPU only has HDMI 2.0 (max 4K 60Hz). Or needing HDMI 2.1 for PS5 but buying a DisplayPort-only monitor. Connectivity mismatches cause frustration and extra costs.
What You Need
- 4K 60Hz: HDMI 2.0 or DisplayPort 1.2
- 4K 120-144Hz: HDMI 2.1 or DisplayPort 1.4
- PS5/Xbox 4K 120Hz: HDMI 2.1 required
- USB-C laptop: Check USB-C with DisplayPort Alt Mode support
What to Do Instead
Check your GPU/laptop/console outputs first. Match the monitor's inputs to your devices. If connecting multiple devices, ensure enough ports of the right type. Don't assume - check specs.
Skipping the Return Period Test
Dead pixels and backlight bleed vary unit-to-unit
The Problem
Every monitor has manufacturing variance. One unit might have perfect uniformity while another has backlight bleed or dead pixels. If you don't test during the return window, you're stuck with defects.
What to Test
- Dead pixels: Dead pixel test - look for stuck or dead pixels
- Backlight bleed: Black screen test in dark room
- Uniformity: Uniformity test for clouding/DSE
- Color accuracy: Check for tint or color shift
What to Do Instead
Run all tests within the first few days. Buy from retailers with good return policies (Amazon, Best Buy, Costco). If issues are noticeable in normal use, exchange - don't settle. See our Should I Return My Monitor tool.
Summary: Smart Monitor Buying
Do
- ✓ Define your use case first
- ✓ Match resolution to screen size
- ✓ Choose panel type for your needs
- ✓ Check connectivity requirements
- ✓ Read independent reviews
- ✓ Test during return window
- ✓ Consider ergonomics
Don't
- ✗ Trust "1ms response time" marketing
- ✗ Expect real HDR from HDR400
- ✗ Buy 1080p at 27" or larger
- ✗ Pay for refresh rates you can't use
- ✗ Fall for "gaming" branding premiums
- ✗ Ignore stand adjustability
- ✗ Skip testing for defects
Test Your Monitor
Use our free testing tools to check for defects during your return window.